In my attempt to visit every current Michelin Starred restaurant I have found everything from beautiful gems (the aptly named Jewel Bako) to abysmal wastes of time (Shalezeh or Shalizar, or who cares?). Some restaurants have made me seriously question the criteria and the judges involved in the selection process. Others have made me wonder if, while still in their infancy, they can take the place of some of the more decrepit members of the club.
Elsewhere, on 43rd Street just West of 9th Avenue, just opened in December, but is running on all cylinders. In searching for press on this great spot, I found sparse, although positive, reviews. They deserve more.
This place strikes the perfect balance between comfort, inventiveness, and execution. A strong beer menu, beautifully selected wine menu, and a seasonal and creative cocktail program make the overall bar program here among the best around. Most places slack in some areas and let the masses choose what they want. Elsewhere selects the best, sometimes quirkiest, drinks and makes you choose from them. This makes me very comfortable at their small, but friendly, bar.
The cheese menu is something to drool over. And, while the selections themselves are great, the accompaniments, artfully created by Pastry Chef Leigh Friend, are what make the cheese experience here a few notches above other cheese plates anywhere I've been. Chef Leigh has an amazingly keen palate and I find myself cooing over her (the cheeses are wisely and carefully selected by Dimitri Saad, but Chef Leigh makes them sing) cheese plates regularly.
The main menu is creative, yet not outlandish or lavish. The main proteins or starches are nothing you can't find on numerous other menus in Hell's Kitchen, but the way they are put together is a little different than you might normally find. Chef Megan Johnson has an unapologetic love of fun flavor combinations, and apparently also for perfectly executed dishes. The 5-Spoke Tumbleweed Poutine (fries, cheese, gravy, and chicken liver) is sinfully delectable. Light and perfect for summer, Grilled Octopus Salad features perfectly prepared octopus, not an easy feat. A delicious Roasted Bone Marrow with French Fries is perfectly cooked, and the fries are a witty substitute for bread in this case.
The desserts, not surprisingly with a talent like Chef Leigh, are remarkable. I have had four desserts at Elsewhere, and each was delightful in its simple creativity. The Dutch Baby is well worth the fifteen minute wait after you order it.
I rarely comment on ambiance or service because they make no difference to my enjoyment of the food itself, but, in this case let me state that the place is cute, warm, and welcoming, and the staff is generally the same. Service is usually on point.
I have had numerous dinners here, every sip has been memorable, every bite fantastic, and every morsel brilliantly envisioned and executed. Not surprisingly, my one brunch there (so far) was also divine.
Not only do I give this restaurant my full recommendation, I will go this far: Chef Megan Johnson deserves to have at least One Star on her resume when the next list comes out. So go now, before everyone else finds it and you can't get a reservation.
Brian William Waddell is a foodie, beer geek, and author. His numerous blog posts range from food to politics. He also has a book of poetry, Fractured Prose, available here, and is ready to publish his second poetic endeavor.
Showing posts with label Brunch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Brunch. Show all posts
Friday, July 15, 2011
Monday, April 27, 2009
Sunday Brunch at ENVY Steakhouse
I have come to the conclusion that very few cities really know how to put on a killer brunch. Buffet brunches seem the norm in the places that don't understand what brunch is really all about. And since I've never lived in a city that understands brunch, like New York or New Orleans do, I've had my fair share of buffet brunches, some good, some bad, and all lacking the relaxing, sit and enjoy atmosphere that befits a Sunday afternoon. ENVY Steakhouse does a pretty good job with their brunch buffet, and at $25 ahead with all you can drink champagne, mimosas, Bloody Marys, and wine it's one brunch buffet where you can definitely justify the price (especially if you're comfortable drinking like you did in your college days).
They call it "Mimosas & Music" and they certainly have both covered. The mimosas are served at a station at the back of the restaurant, and the music is served up by pianist Wes Winters. He puts on a good lounge act and nearly drowns out the din of clanging plates and serving utensils that is omnipresent at a buffet. My dinner visit to ENVY gave me a picture of a hip yet romantic little spot that would excel as a place for an anniversary. The view at brunch is not quite the same. The natural light flooding in through the floor-to-ceiling windows did enough to transform the normally sedate and candlelit dining room without the decidedly older clientele. Drop by Denny's at 4:00 PM and you'll have a pretty complete picture of the clientele at this brunch.
Enough about ambiance, on to the important stuff: Food. If you've been to a decent brunch buffet you won't be surprised by anything you see here. The usual omelet station, common Belgian waffle station, bacon, sausage, well above average cheese blintz, normal french toast, pedestrian pancakes, bland "breakfast potatoes," and better than expected eggs Benedict make up the breakfast selections.
A tastier-than-most-buffet-prime-ribs prime rib gets the action started on the lunch oriented leg of this journey and is joined by perfectly cooked shrimp with a well put together cocktail sauce, long but unfortunately lean crab legs, an assortment of average little "sandwiches" on toast points, an overly soggy tomato and mozzarella "salad," very fishy smoked salmon, bagels, and a nicely stocked but, given the volume, poorly presented (if anyone from ENVY reads this, the stone is nice for intimate gatherings, but should be augmented with individual plates and utensils for each different cheese when so many are partaking) cheese platter.
The desserts were, overall, the most disappointing thing in the restaurant. Although the bread pudding held up well and was tasty, the little cakes were mostly over sweet, and the mousses were so bad that I had to call my father the chef to ask what could have gone so wrong.
I know, I've been hard on them, but it's only out of love. On the night of one of their monthly wine dinners this place supplied me with one of the better meals I've had and I want their brunch buffet to live up to those high standards. Most of the complaints I have about this meal are specific to buffets, and especially buffets which must cater to the, "Hold the salt, please," geriatric segment of our population. But others just point to a restaurant trying to turn a buck in this brutal, business devouring economy. Although, I'm pretty sure they didn't make much money on me after two mimosas, a Bloody Mary, and three glasses of wine. I know they are better than this, and that is what bothers me the most.
Brian William Waddell is a foodie, beer geek, and author. His numerous blog posts range from food to politics. He also has a book of poetry, Fractured Prose, available here, and is ready to publish his second poetic endeavor.
They call it "Mimosas & Music" and they certainly have both covered. The mimosas are served at a station at the back of the restaurant, and the music is served up by pianist Wes Winters. He puts on a good lounge act and nearly drowns out the din of clanging plates and serving utensils that is omnipresent at a buffet. My dinner visit to ENVY gave me a picture of a hip yet romantic little spot that would excel as a place for an anniversary. The view at brunch is not quite the same. The natural light flooding in through the floor-to-ceiling windows did enough to transform the normally sedate and candlelit dining room without the decidedly older clientele. Drop by Denny's at 4:00 PM and you'll have a pretty complete picture of the clientele at this brunch.
Enough about ambiance, on to the important stuff: Food. If you've been to a decent brunch buffet you won't be surprised by anything you see here. The usual omelet station, common Belgian waffle station, bacon, sausage, well above average cheese blintz, normal french toast, pedestrian pancakes, bland "breakfast potatoes," and better than expected eggs Benedict make up the breakfast selections.
A tastier-than-most-buffet-prime-ribs prime rib gets the action started on the lunch oriented leg of this journey and is joined by perfectly cooked shrimp with a well put together cocktail sauce, long but unfortunately lean crab legs, an assortment of average little "sandwiches" on toast points, an overly soggy tomato and mozzarella "salad," very fishy smoked salmon, bagels, and a nicely stocked but, given the volume, poorly presented (if anyone from ENVY reads this, the stone is nice for intimate gatherings, but should be augmented with individual plates and utensils for each different cheese when so many are partaking) cheese platter.
The desserts were, overall, the most disappointing thing in the restaurant. Although the bread pudding held up well and was tasty, the little cakes were mostly over sweet, and the mousses were so bad that I had to call my father the chef to ask what could have gone so wrong.
I know, I've been hard on them, but it's only out of love. On the night of one of their monthly wine dinners this place supplied me with one of the better meals I've had and I want their brunch buffet to live up to those high standards. Most of the complaints I have about this meal are specific to buffets, and especially buffets which must cater to the, "Hold the salt, please," geriatric segment of our population. But others just point to a restaurant trying to turn a buck in this brutal, business devouring economy. Although, I'm pretty sure they didn't make much money on me after two mimosas, a Bloody Mary, and three glasses of wine. I know they are better than this, and that is what bothers me the most.
Brian William Waddell is a foodie, beer geek, and author. His numerous blog posts range from food to politics. He also has a book of poetry, Fractured Prose, available here, and is ready to publish his second poetic endeavor.
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