Sunday Brunch at ENVY Steakhouse

I have come to the conclusion that very few cities really know how to put on a killer brunch. Buffet brunches seem the norm in the places that don't understand what brunch is really all about. And since I've never lived in a city that understands brunch, like New York or New Orleans do, I've had my fair share of buffet brunches, some good, some bad, and all lacking the relaxing, sit and enjoy atmosphere that befits a Sunday afternoon. ENVY Steakhouse does a pretty good job with their brunch buffet, and at $25 ahead with all you can drink champagne, mimosas, Bloody Marys, and wine it's one brunch buffet where you can definitely justify the price (especially if you're comfortable drinking like you did in your college days).

They call it "Mimosas & Music" and they certainly have both covered. The mimosas are served at a station at the back of the restaurant, and the music is served up by pianist Wes Winters. He puts on a good lounge act and nearly drowns out the din of clanging plates and serving utensils that is omnipresent at a buffet. My dinner visit to ENVY gave me a picture of a hip yet romantic little spot that would excel as a place for an anniversary. The view at brunch is not quite the same. The natural light flooding in through the floor-to-ceiling windows did enough to transform the normally sedate and candlelit dining room without the decidedly older clientele. Drop by Denny's at 4:00 PM and you'll have a pretty complete picture of the clientele at this brunch.

Enough about ambiance, on to the important stuff: Food. If you've been to a decent brunch buffet you won't be surprised by anything you see here. The usual omelet station, common Belgian waffle station, bacon, sausage, well above average cheese blintz, normal french toast, pedestrian pancakes, bland "breakfast potatoes," and better than expected eggs Benedict make up the breakfast selections.

A tastier-than-most-buffet-prime-ribs prime rib gets the action started on the lunch oriented leg of this journey and is joined by perfectly cooked shrimp with a well put together cocktail sauce, long but unfortunately lean crab legs, an assortment of average little "sandwiches" on toast points, an overly soggy tomato and mozzarella "salad," very fishy smoked salmon, bagels, and a nicely stocked but, given the volume, poorly presented (if anyone from ENVY reads this, the stone is nice for intimate gatherings, but should be augmented with individual plates and utensils for each different cheese when so many are partaking) cheese platter.

The desserts were, overall, the most disappointing thing in the restaurant. Although the bread pudding held up well and was tasty, the little cakes were mostly over sweet, and the mousses were so bad that I had to call my father the chef to ask what could have gone so wrong.

I know, I've been hard on them, but it's only out of love. On the night of one of their monthly wine dinners this place supplied me with one of the better meals I've had and I want their brunch buffet to live up to those high standards. Most of the complaints I have about this meal are specific to buffets, and especially buffets which must cater to the, "Hold the salt, please," geriatric segment of our population. But others just point to a restaurant trying to turn a buck in this brutal, business devouring economy. Although, I'm pretty sure they didn't make much money on me after two mimosas, a Bloody Mary, and three glasses of wine. I know they are better than this, and that is what bothers me the most.

Brian William Waddell is a foodie, beer geek, and author. His numerous blog posts range from food to politics. He also has a book of poetry, Fractured Prose, available here, and is ready to publish his second poetic endeavor.

My Birthday Dinner

Sunset Station is usually not the place I think of when I want a killer meal. Sonoma Cellar Steakhouse is starting to change my mind in that regard. As a steakhouse it provides some excellent classic choices for much, much less money than a similar meal on the Strip. As a place that features sustainable seafood it spares no expense in bringing in the freshest and the best and then doesn't pass that cost on to you as much as it could.

The best restaurants use the best ingredients and then stay out of the way. That is very much how the kitchen at Sonoma Cellar does business. From a shishito pepper appetizer (decidedly not a steakhouse staple) which is very simply, but to great effect, fried and salted, to the fish offerings which can be done grilled, poached, or meuniere, this place chooses to accentuate the flavors of the main part of a dish rather than drown them out. They have two dry aged steak options, both bone-in, a rib-eye and a New York. These are both marinated in such a way that brings out the beefiness and doesn't overpower the beauty of the dry-aged meat.

In the interest of full disclosure, Executive Chef Schuyler Schultz is a friend of mine, but I only admit to that, or even allow him to be called such, because he is an outstanding chef (I only hope I am deserving of the same moniker with him). So, on my visit for my birthday dinner there were a few off the menu treats including an amuse of marcona almond "soup" which only needed a bigger spoon, and some tempura asparagus which, in the chefs own estimation, weren't as good as at Raku but were still very good, although I did feel that the spears were unevenly tossed in their post-frying seasoning.

I will be returning on February 12th for a special beer paired dinner. It's open to the public and the menu and more info can be found here. Hope to see you all there.

Brian William Waddell is a foodie, beer geek, and author. His numerous blog posts range from food to politics. He also has a book of poetry, Fractured Prose, available here, and is ready to publish his second poetic endeavor.

BOA Steakhouse

The Restaurant: BOA Steakhouse
Location: Top floor of the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace Las Vegas
Dinner for 1 price: $72 plus tip

The Skinny: Very good food in hefty portions. The menu is Surf & Turf and features Kobe beef (Wagyu or American Kobe, specially raised hybrids of Angus and Kobe beef) for some of the steak options. I started with a Pomegranate Mojito. I could have had 6 of those things they were so good. Still, I am more impressed with the blueberry mojito at Spago and the Lavender mojito at Parasol Down in the Wynn. I went for the Market Menu which featured a choice of salads, entree and sides, and came with crème brulee for dessert. I had the Chop Chop Salad which consisted of chopped artichokes, salami, chick peas, olives, tomatoes, pine nuts, and provolone cheese. It wasn't a huge salad, but it was certainly filling and could be used as an entree for lighter eaters or someone saving room for dessert. For the entree I had the Kobe Flat Iron Steak. Very good meat, well seasoned, and the Cabernet sauce I chose for dipping was perfect. The sides for me were the fries, which apparently were sprinkled with a touch of truffle oil, and the mushrooms which were also wonderful, especially dipped in the cabernet sauce. By the time I got through all of this I was fairly full. The crème brule was nice, no more, no less. All in all this was an enjoyable meal; service was well above what I expect at this mid-range type Strip restaurant. The price is typical Strip (unfortunately) but the portions are typical steakhouse (fortunately). The meal I had would have left a light eating couple content. So, I recommend making this an entree only kind of place unless you split the Market Menu. The entrees with two sides are sufficient, then walk down the strip and find dessert elsewhere.

Brian William Waddell is a foodie, beer geek, and author. His numerous blog posts range from food to politics. He also has a book of poetry, Fractured Prose, available here, and is ready to publish his second poetic endeavor.